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Today is Twelfth Night . . . Epiphany . . . the first day of Mardi Gras (or Carnival, to the purists).

There’s an almost obscene irony in the air today, in this city whose mystique derives from historic juxtapositions of deep miseries and joys.

On Friday, two items illustrate this perfectly.

From MSNBC, commenting on the numbing bloodbath ongoing in New Orleans:

In the last week more Americans have died in New Orleans than in Iraq. Since Dec. 29, there have been eight military deaths. In the Big Easy, there have been 14 murders.
(read full story)

We did the math here, too, based on the national “shock” over the American death toll in Iraq reaching 3,000. On a per-capita basis, one of every 100,000 Americans have died in Iraq. On a per-capita basis, from 60 to 80 of every 100,000 New Orleanians died in the past year. Just to put things in perspective.

And now 14 slayings in a week. Seven slayings within 24 hours. That’s just the dead. And scattered geographically in a way that proves there are no safe neighborhoods. The fear in the city, and in our office, is palpable.

Friday morning’s lead headline in the Times-Picayune had to use lurid terms even to approach a description of the situation: Killings bring city to its bloodied knees

This headline also noted grabbed the attention of MSNBC

And in the middle of this bloodbath, it’s Mardi Gras.

While the Times-Picayune was describing a city under siege, Mayor Ray Nagin’s office issued this release:

MAYOR NAGIN KICKS-OFF 2007 CARNIVAL SEASON

NEW ORLEANS, LA (January 5, 2007) - Mayor C. Ray Nagin will kick-off the 2007 Carnival Season with the city’s annual King Cake Party on Saturday, January 6, at 10 a.m. in Gallier Hall. The University of Maryland at College Park Marching Band will perform at this year’s event . . . Carnival begins with the Feast of the Three Kings (Epiphany) on January 6 and concludes at midnight on Mardi Gras Day (Fat Tuesday), February 20, 2007.

So in a few hours, the Mayor and the monarchs of Mardi Gras will meet to slice king cake. At the same time, the first parade of the season, Alla, kicks off in Gretna. And at roughly the same time, the jazz funeral of a band leader gunned down earlier this week will step off.

At 7 p.m. Zeus rolls in Metairie, and the Phunny Phorty Phellows “hijacks” a streetcar for its traditional Mardi Gras kickoff event. On Sunday, there will be a march on City Hall to demand action on the slayings that are the last straw for many residents on the fence about whether to leave, stay or not return.

At NOLA.com, which slugged its way through Katrina and its aftermath, staffers are seriously discussing leaving town. What Katrina left standing, the post-apocalyptic killing frenzy is tearing down. And as Jose Narosky wrote: “In war, there are no unwounded soldiers.”

Last year, Carnival was a show of determination to survive and rebuild. Today it feels like a desperate act of denial.

Let the good times roll. Let them eat king cake.

11/8/2006 - 4 a.m.

I’m up much further into the wee hours than I’d intended to be. But my one chore - the last mile to go before I sleep - is to respond to a question posed by my internet journalism colleague Chris Lyden and his staff from Radio Open Source.

The election: Was it good for you? What changed for YOU? Is YOUR life better or worse?

Frankly I’d almost decided not to vote. Only the sight of the poll workers looking forlornly at the empty parking lot made me turn in and vote on principle. I live in a congressional district with a preordained winner, and the constitutional amendments make my head hurt. There didn’t seem to be a point.

Control of Congress? Flip a coin. I’m a partisan “atheist.” I don’t believe. The consolidation of power, rather than principles, is the primary motivation of both major parties. And too often, the only party platform plank that really makes a difference is “We’re not them.” Over the past two decades, each party, when out of power, has demonized the other and sought to create gridlock.

My daughter Sarah, still in Katrina exile in Philadelphia, called last night to tell me that she and her friends had gone to the polls to vote against Sen. Rick Santorum. She immediately backpedalled and said, “Oh my god, I didn’t vote FOR someone . . . I just voted against someone.” She’s young. Her second round of voting. “Get used to it,” I said. And cringed at my own cynicism.

But in fact, it’s not baseless. As a country, we have lost faith in our democratic system. We’re poor winners and poor losers . . . in the end, we’re all just losers. Every election, every vote, every malfunctioning air conditioner is now a conspiracy. And both parties spend the two years between election cycles maintaining the anger of their core base as fuel for the next election.

Tonight, I chose to spend the evening at an election watch party of political activists representing an almost perpendicular departure from my personal politics (can’t say “diametric” - I don’t like the other end of that spectrum, either). The hosts were Buddy and Annie Spell - a legendary couple that transcends party politics. Annie, a white woman, is the president of the NAACP in St. Tammany Parish, LA, the most Republican parish in Louisiana. Buddy is the attorney for Cindy Sheehan. Both of the Spells have long records of activism in the left wing of American politics.

I assigned myself to blog from their home as part of my own agenda: To sit with fellow Americans with political views that were possibly significantly different from mine, and watch the country decide its future. In writing from the event, I called their home the tiny blue heart in Louisiana’s deepest red parish. We joked that their house could hold every Democrat in St. Tammany Parish . . . in fact, that a FEMA trailer could hold them all.

Annie sets me up with a TV tray for my laptop and I settle in front of the fireplace. On the mantle, shelves and walls behind me are an array of folk art works of Jesus, lit by rows of flickering religious candles.

I eat their pizza and soak in their unique personalities. Guests wander from the smoking room to the keg on the patio, to settle a few minutes in front of CNN. A woman sits in an easy chair drawing a balcony scene onto a clayboard frame with India ink for an upcoming art benefit. As the early returns come in, there is little reaction . . . the first states offer no surprises. Sen. Joe Lieberman’s election as an independent is met with mixed reactions . . . the consensus is that he votes with the GOP on key issues anyway, so it’s not a net loss for the the Democrats.

Buddy takes me on a tour of his upstairs office, which I call a “museum,” with walls and shelves covered with memorabilia of the history of antiwar, liberal activism, souvenirs he has collected from his long personal journey. I’m particularly fond of the skulls and skeletons mixed in the collection. But the two best items are a WWII Nazi military helmet with an antiwar sticker slapped on the front, and a pig mask. Sometimes, he says, he’s worn them both at the same time. Not tonight, though . . . he’s wearing a Virginia ball cap to hoodoo the close Senate race in that state for the Democrat. He reminds me of Hunter Thompson - a lot. Way gonzo. Stretched across the front of his desk is a full-sized blue flag with a large white star in the middle.

“Kind of ironic,” I say.

(The “Bonnie Blue Flag” was the sentimental favorite of the Confederacy. Even singing the song of the same name was a capital crime under the Civil War occupation of Yankee Gen. William “The Beast” Butler. )

“This is a revolutionary flag,” he says, reminding me that it flew over the Republic of West Florida, which formed after a rebellion against Spain in our North Shore parishes that weren’t included in the Louisiana Purchase. An undertaking more in line with Buddy’s politics than the CSA.

“I’ve just reclaimed it.”

Gonzo.

Back in the living room, results are coming in, and the group erupts in glee at the pronouncement of key victories for the Democrats. Buddy says it’s like watching the Saints score a touchdown. The Democratic takeover of the House, and the presumption that Nancy Pelosi will be the first woman to be House Speaker sparks another round of jubilation.

“It’s about time!” Annie yells, pumping her fist in the air and bouncing in joy. I have to rib her.

“Good Lord, woman, it’s only been 230 years . . . kinda pushy, aren’tcha?”

She laughs more.

A somber mood later, as GOP Rep. Bobby Jindal gives his victory speech after taking the First Congressional District with nearly 90 percent of the vote.

Democratic challenger Stacey Tallitsch watches silent and still from an easy chair near my blogging station. Not much to say - the landslide was expected.

Buddy walks by and pats his arm.

A few minutes earlier, Tallitsch had gotten word on the final results. He told me he didn’t regret running, and that he was satisfied he’d run a clean and honest campaign. He was happy with a system that allows citizens to hold their leader’s feet to the fire. He did note that if he runs again, he wants to have a whole year to organize. He’d been living in Katrina evacuee mode for seven months of the past year, and had only a short time to make his run. He posed for a picture by the snack table decorated with his campaign stickers, and decorated with a hanging George Bush effigy. Then we went into the living room to watch his opponent bask in victory.

The Spells tell great war stories about enduring Texas heat and privation in the camps of protesters backing Sheehan’s antiwar vigil outside Crawford. Buddy stands and does a hilarious reenactment of an in-your-face eating of hot dogs beside a PETA food stand, just to tick them off. Good stuff, Maynard!

PETA wouldn’t like the cowhide serving as a carpet in the Spell’s atrium, either. It was a wedding gift from Buddy, Annie tells me.

We stay until well past midnight, watching the last close races - Virginia, Missouri and Montana. As we leave, the handshakes of strangers have been replaced by the hugs that one gets and gives down here.

And this is what it’s all about. What I want more than anything in American politics is to agree on as many basic values as possible, to have the ability to differ on strategy and tactics in support of those values, and to be able to share pizza, humor and hugs at the end of the day.

Today I’m more confident that our system still works, and that the real power is in the hands of the people. And it’s never been blue states vs. red states . . . from sea to shining sea, the country is shades of purple. That’s the way it should be.

Neither party can afford to forget that. And we, the people, had better not fail to exercise our power.

I’m glad I voted.

Theresa Andersson talks about her return to New Orleans and her devotion to finding deeper roots.

Download File

Audio from the Road

Phoning this one in . . . from outside the Superdome on the afternoon of the Saints’ homecoming.

MP3 File

Mayor Clarence “Ray Nagin” took to the stand this week to defend his administration against accusations from all quarters that he has no plan for New Orleans. The bottom line from all quarters is that Ray is still a deer in headlights. Planning to appoint a committee to develop a plan. And of those few things he can actually cite as progress . . . most have been done by others.

I have no spleen left to vent. Listening to Nagin is like listening to FEMA promising to help. Here’s some punditry from around town, from people with eloquence left over . . .

From Mark Folse’s “Wet Bank Guide“: Perdido Street and Agincourt

Freom the “People Get Ready” blog: C. Ray Nagin: Katrina Boneless Chicken

And of course, The Times-Picayune on Nagin’s 100 Days

As the body count piles up, the Orleans Parish District Attorney’s office seems intent on punishing defendants by inaction, rather than by proving its cases in court. Horror stories about untried defendants languishing in jail, and being released after serving more time behind bars than a conviction would have earned are becoming commonplace under Eddie Jordan’s inept leadership. Easy enough to force someone to spend six months in jail time without ever having to go to court. This shameful mess came to a head recently as a first-degree murder defendant was freed, because Eddie dawdled too long.

Times-Picayune columnist James Gill takes a savage swipe at Jordan today:

No question about it. If you feel like shooting someone, do it in Orleans Parish.

That way you could be out of jail in a jiffy on a $10 bond from Judge Charlie Elloie. And DA Eddie Jordan would inevitably make a total hash of the prosecution.

Read the whole thing here

The more things change . . . they don’t change that much . . .

“Times are not good here. The city is crumbling into ashes. It has been buried under a lava flood of taxes and frauds and maladministrations so that it has become only a study for archaeologists. Its condition is so bad that when I write about it, as I intend to do soon, nobody will believe I am telling the truth. But it is better to live here in sackcloth and ashes than to own the whole state of Ohio.”

–Lafcadio Hearn, 1879

Local casualty of 9/11

As the golden hour gives way to dusk this evening, I visit with the only casualty of Sept. 11, 2001 that I know.  I kneel  at his feet and say a prayer over his grave. Hozho na'as glih. Hozho na'as glih.  In beauty, it is done.

____________

Spc. Robert L. duSang was killed in Iraq a little over two years ago, literally on his way home, in convoy from Baghdad to Kuwait, where he was to leave to the United States.  Awaiting him was his new wife, his mother, brothers and sisters, scattered across St. Tammany Parish.

Notifying the family was difficult.  Some had no phones. I accompanied my pastor to a mobile home back in the piney woods outskirts of Tickfaw, where we asked his sister and her husband to step outside away from the children, and then told them, "We've lost Robert." 

It was the first North Shore military death in this War on Terror, at the end of a late Spring that had seen such firsts in New Orleans and Metairie and other metro areas.  As a first, this casualty attracted TV cameras and reporters and military VIPs, which have quit coming now that the list of dead is so long.  I acted as press liaison for the family, hopefully cushioning the stress from the media, which needed to tell this story.

This was my first blog report on Robert's death

Robert duSang and his elder brother and sister were friends with my children. They had spent the night at my house, attended my church.  I took the piles of photos from scrapbooks lovingly compiled by Robert's mother from his birth, along with photos from friends, and those sent by the cocky youth with the helmet and flak jacket in Baghdad, and created the memorial slideshow for the funeral, along with his favorite songs.  I'll never hear "Who am I," by Casting Crowns, without remembering the sunset of the day I finished that memorial, the day before Robert's funeral.

"Who am i?
That the lord of all the earth,
Would care to know my name,
Would care to feel my hurt.
Who am i?
That the bright and morning star,
Would choose to light the way,
For my ever wondering heart.

Not because of who i am.
But because of what you've done.
Not because of what i've done.
But because of who you are.

I am a flower quickly fading,
Here today and gone tomorrow.
A wave tossed in the ocean,
A vapor in the wind.
Still you hear me when i'm calling,
Lord you catch me when i'm falling,
And you told me who i am.
I am yours.
I am yours . . .
"

Robert's commanding general from Fort Polk arrives for the funeral with a full honor guard for this, one of the first of his unit to fall in this war set off by 9/11. Outside the church, and at the grave side, television and newspaper photographers use long lenses, so that the mourners will not be disturbed.  

In quiet, exact paces and motions, the honor guard surrounds the flag-draped casket for the salute and Taps.  The squad leader snaps a salute, then drops it away in slow motion. The flag is folded into a tight triangle with precise movements, and passed to the general. The commander then  gives flags to Robert's mother, father and widow. Along with each flag is a newly awarded Bronze Star. 

__________________  

Now in this twilight, as mist begins edging out of the pine and cypress surrounding the Mandeville Cemetery, the tombstone says much of what can be said. "I came. I saw. I was." This is not a place for politics, but of memory for a young warrior - a brother, son, husband and friend gone too soon.

I tie a feather, beaded with black, white and red, to twist in the evening breeze over Spc. Robert L. duSang.

Hozho na'as glih. In beauty, it is done.

 

 

 

Houma powwow

Just for a pleasant break from my post-Katrina sob story, thought I'd share this slideshow from the annual powwow of the Houma Nation outside, well, Houma.

The music is the Tsalagi Morning Song, which is out of place, of course, but this was an intertribal affair.  And the women sang it over my Choctaw father as he was dying.

View the slideshow

The frantic rush of work leading up to today's Katrina anniversary came to a screeching halt last night, as I received my call to jury duty. A day that was scheduled for memorials and interviews ends in the hushed murmur of a St. Tammany courtroom annex for Juror 76.

A year ago at this moment, I sat in the hurricane bunker in The Times-Picayune building, frantically posting the latest news updates and pleas for help. The bulletproof windows outside the Living department bulged in and out with the slamming gusts of Katrina. Across the central stairwell, a section of the executive office windows exploded inward, sending a firehose geyser of water into the building and pouring from floor to floor like a cascading waterfall.

 I was nauseated with fear for my daughter Sarah, who was cut off in mid-phone call three hours earlier. She was hiding in our Mandeville home, only a couple of blocks from Lake Pontchartrain, in an area where tall pines were being snapped as if by a giant lawnmower, crushing hundreds of houses. Within a few minutes, we'd get the first confirmation of the levee breaks.

Perhaps it's a metaphor for life in New Orleans: for Juror 76, this day of closure isn't meant to be. No Masses, no second lines, no laying of flowers. Just a resentment at being elsewhere as my city weeps . . . tempered with the knowledge that jury duty is a tangible sign that life is moving on. Life doesn't stop for tears.

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